Peaks of the Balkans
The Peaks of the Balkans is a long-distance trek through the Accursed Mountains (Prokletije), where the borders of Albania, Montenegro and Kosovo meet. The route is a loop that can be started in several towns; we began and ended in Plav, in Montenegro, and walked the circuit in seven days.
Background
The Peaks of the Balkans trail was developed in the 2010s to promote hiking and sustainable tourism in one of Europe's least-known mountain regions. The landscape is raw and dramatic - high passes, deep valleys and traditional villages - and the route is more remote and less crowded than classics like the Tour du Mont Blanc. What it lacks in refuges and infrastructure it makes up for in solitude and a sense of discovery. One of my favourite aspects of the hike was how the character of the trail and the villages changed from day to day as we moved between countries.
Our hike
We had our eyes fixed on the Peaks of the Balkans for a while and finally gave it a go in August. We travelled light and camped most nights, with a couple of stays in guesthouses where it made sense. Our journey looked like this:
- Day 1 – Plav to Vusanje
- Day 2 – Vusanje to Theth
- Day 3 – Theth to Valbona
- Day 4 – Valbona to Cerem
- Day 5 – Cerem to Doberdol
- Day 6 – Doberdol to Babino Polje
- Day 7 – Babino Polje to Plav
We were short on time, so we cut the trail short: going from Doberdol straight to Babino Polje skips the section of the Peaks of the Balkans that runs through Kosovo. If you have the days, the full loop including Kosovo is worth it.
We flew into Podgorica and took a bus to Plav, which sits at the northern end of the route. From Plav the trail heads into the mountains and soon crosses into Albania. Theth and Valbona are two of the most famous stops-deep in the Albanian Alps, with guesthouses and a growing trekking scene. A short detour from Theth takes you to the Blue Eye spring-a striking turquoise pool in the forest. From Valbona we continued to Doberdol and the cutting short to Babino Polje, before dropping back down to Plav to close the loop.
The trail and the people
The path is a mix of old shepherd and trade routes, waymarked but not always obvious. A good map or GPS is useful, and the weather can change quickly in the high passes. We met a mix of hikers: some doing the full loop like us, others on shorter sections or day walks from Theth or Valbona. The stream of hikers was nothing like the TMB-often we had long stretches to ourselves. In the villages we got a warm welcome and simple, hearty food. Think about it - in one week you cross three countries, each with its own language and customs, all in the same mountain range.
Navigation
Finding your way on the Peaks of the Balkans can be tricky. The path is a mix of old shepherd and trade routes, and waymarking is not always clear. We had downloaded some Komoot maps before the trip, but they were not accurate enough—routes didn't match the ground, and we had to guess more than we liked. After I got home, I ended up building my own app to fix that: Peaks of the Balkans Map, with high-quality GPS data, offline maps and points of interest along the trail. If you're planning the hike, it's worth a look.
Food and accommodation
Accommodation is a mix of camping and family-run guesthouses. In places like Theth and Valbona there are plenty of guesthouses offering half board; booking ahead in summer is wise. Elsewhere we camped. Wild camping is generally tolerated in the mountains if you are discreet and leave no trace. We carried a tent and stove and were self-sufficient for most of the trip, with a few nights in guesthouses for a proper bed and a hot meal.
Food on the trail is straightforward: bread, cheese, fruit and whatever we could buy in the last village. In the guesthouses we ate local dishes-stews, grilled meat, salads and plenty of bread. After a long day, it doesn't take much to satisfy a tired hiker. In Plav we stocked up on basics before setting off; resupply options along the way are limited, so we planned our carries accordingly.
Final thoughts
The Peaks of the Balkans was a great week. It offered wild scenery, a real sense of remoteness and a chance to walk through a part of Europe that still feels off the beaten path. If I were to go again, I would allow a bit more time for rest days and for exploring Theth and Valbona, and I would keep an eye on the weather for the high passes. Well worth the trip.
